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Tuesday, March 22, 2005

I'm off on my Easter hols... so all will be quiet for a week or so. A few days of sun and all the kids have decided not to go to school. So I'm joining them. Happy Easter one and all.

Saturday, March 19, 2005

News

Not a great story.. or a great week.. the highest smog level in Naples ever, and now 20 nuclear torpedoes left by the Soviets on the seabed in the bay of Naples. But, the sun is out and spring is sprung.. so no-one can bring themselves to give a toss.

Sunday, March 13, 2005

Finally. it seems like spring is coming. This morning was a good indicator as the streets were packed with young and old trying out their new thinner clothing. And about time.. but just in time for Easter which is a blessing, or there would have been ructions.
My busiest time of year is coming to an end, and to be honest, I can't wait. Despite my protestations I still haven't won the 50 million lottery jackpot, which seems unfair. Very little has happened, which accounts for my not posting regularly. Either that or I would have been belabouring you with stories of exciting bus journies, how expensive tomatoes are... you get the picture.
The paper on Friday saw fit to publish a full page spread of where to buy drugs in Naples. To be fair, it was under the heading, 'centres of drug pushers' but it amounts to the same thing. And a map. So if you were unsure before, now there is no excuse not to know where to get your smack supply. Surprisingly I liveon one of the major streets for getting your wares. Needless to say I was completely unaware of the fact, walking round as I do in a state of other worldliness.
Other than that the news has been good and bad: a 14 year old shot in the head by a group of between 8 and 10 lads just perpetuates the sickening violence that is endemic in parts of the city. On the other hand, Naples seems to have great plans for the future. THe go ahead has finally been given for a road tunnel near the port which will make a huge difference, at least for the years when the present road is shut. The university is taking over some of the vast ALbergo dei poveri which should help it get spruced up. The new tube lines are nearing completion. And work starts on an all new central station in a month or so, which will add to the chaos and feeling of doom when you arrive in Naples and see the mess that is Piazza Garibaldi, (due to the aforementioned new tube lines) Now the station itself will be a construction site for the best part of a year... but heigh ho, it'll be lovely when its finished and mightnot smell of stale pee.

Wednesday, March 02, 2005


A very Scottish castle Posted by Hello
Yesterday was the coldest day in many parts of Italy for 50 years. Up in the Veneto it plunged to -35 degrees, which frankly is a bit much in March. Here in Naples Vesuvio is still snow capped which is rare when Spring is around the corner. We are assured it will arrive next week, and not a moment too soon.
I'm reading a book written in 1886 by a couple of Etonians who describe daily life in Naples at that time. Virtually every page tells the reader that the Neapolitan is lazy, indolent, workshy as well as highly supertitious, an inveterate gambler and a cheat. I wonder when this theory first arose. Keeping it current is certainly one of the main aims of the Northern League who loathe the south, and in particular Naples.

There is a folly of a castle halfway up the hill to Vomero. It looks like something lifted up from the wilds of Scotland and plonked down in between some 19th century villas and very 20th century apartment blocks. It was in facvt built in the 1920's, designed by the British architect Lamont Young, and has been languishing, unloved, for many years. Now the comune is injecting 11 million euros into its restoration with the idea that it will become a centre of tourism. Admirable, but I have been here for 18 months now, and I can't work out how to find it, so far is it off the beaten track. The idea that tourists fresh off the train and boat will negotiate the public transport, and ramps to get their map of Naples is bizarre. Perhaps I'm just bitter. I saw this place the first time I came to Naples and vowed I would buy it if I won lottery.

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