italiafile

Here am I, back in Naples for the New Year. And a rather sombre one it will be.... for Naples. In common with most of Italy, the council has decided to cancel the huge fireworks display and send the money to the stricken coastlines of Asia where it is needed. Solidarity and Respect are the apt buzzwords, as the toll of Italian dead is now above 600.
It doesn't stop the locals, however, who are letting off bangers and firecrackers in the streets every few seconds.
It has been a lean Christmas in Naples, people cutting back on presents and the feasting, and the sales have been brought forward to start on 2nd January in a vain attempt to kick start the local economy. A year in which the Camorra turf war has re-ignited with 130 murders; unemployment again rising along with the cost of living, and tender shoots of recovery being shown by the Napoli football team. People are hoping for great things in 2005, not least the new direct flights to New York, which has prompted a 'City of Tourism' label being stuck on Naples for the first 6 months of the year.
Behind all the Auguri's and Buon Anno's is the thought of the devastation wrought by the tsunami in Asia and a 'there but by the grace of God....'. It's now 24 year years since the last big Naples earthquake, (people are still living in temporary accommodation), and 70 since the last eruption of Vesuvius. There is no consensus whether the earthquake last week has brought the possibility of catastrophe to Naples closer or given the city another year of breathing space.

However, they will all be out at midnight, having consumed a vast meal, dancing deleriously in the streets and then dancing till dawn at one of the organised events. This week more than ever, the idea of Neapolitans living for the moment hits home.

Happy New Year. See you in 2005.